Retinoids have long held a special place in the skincare industry, with Retinol reigning as an all-time favorite. However, the rise of other retinoids, such as Retinal, Retinyl Palmitate, and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (famously branded as Granactive Retinoid by Grant Industries) has introduced new dimensions—and confusion—about their differences in efficacy, stability, and tolerability. 

In this eyva article, we’ll dive into the fascinating world of retinoids, exploring their functions, benefits, and the evolving regulatory landscape.

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What Are Retinoids?

Retinoids are compounds with a structure and course of action that resembles its parent compound—Vitamin A. The pharmacological effects of retinoids have long been studied, and have become essential in addressing various skin concerns, including aging, hyperpigmentation, and acne. These compounds work by enhancing cellular turnover and boosting collagen production.

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Understanding the Metabolic Pathway of Retinoids

The effectiveness of retinoids lies in their conversion to retinoic acid, the active form that interacts with skin cells. According to Milosheska & Roškar (2022), the closer a retinoid is to retinoic acid in the metabolic pathway, the higher its efficacy. However, this comes with trade-offs in tolerability and stability:

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Tretinoin

Also known as all-trans retinoic acid, tretinoin is a prescription-strength topical retinoid. It is available in various formulations, including creams and gels, and is recognized for its efficacy in promoting skin cell turnover and enhancing overall skin appearance. As a prescription-only retinoid, it is highly potent and effective but often irritating.

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Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

Serves as an intermediate step between Retinol and retinoic acid in the skin's metabolic pathway. It is also highly potent, but with better stability and is found to be gentler on the skin barrier. Because of this, it is gaining traction in the skincare industry as a preferred ingredient for anti-aging and skin renewal products.

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Retinol

Although widely available in cosmeceutical products, it is about a lot less potent than tretinoin. To put things into perspective, Retinol at a concentration of 0.25% is found to be as effective as 0.025% tretinoin, without significant side effects and irritation. It requires two conversions to become retinoic acid, and thus it is moderately effective. Among other retinoids in cosmeceuticals, Retinol is the most evaluated in clinical trials. 

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Retinyl Esters

Some examples of Retinol esters are Retinyl Palmitate and Retinyl Acetate, which, when combined with Retinol, may have a comparable antiaging effect to tretinoin.

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Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

A cosmetic grade ester of Tretinoin, it sets itself apart from other forms of retinoid by bypassing  conversion, providing direct interaction with retinoic acid receptors while maintaining high tolerability. It was also found to be more stable and cause less skin irritation than Retinol.A cosmetic-grade ester of tretinoin, HPR bypasses conversion, directly binding to retinoic acid receptors. 

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Retinyl Retinoate

Retinyl Retinoate is a hybrid molecule combining Retinol and Retinoic Acid, designed to deliver the benefits of both.

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Bakuchiol As A Plant-Based Retinoid Alternative

• A plant-based alternative to retinoids, Bakuchiol mimics Retinol’s benefits—reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation—without irritation. 
• A 2019 study by S. Dhaliwal et al demonstrated its gentler profile, making it ideal for sensitive skin users.

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Why Are Other Retinoids Besides Retinol on the Rise?

Stability and Tolerability

Retinyl esters like Retinyl Palmitate are favored for their stability compared to Retinol and Retinal, making them ideal for long-lasting formulations. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate offers a unique balance of efficacy and tolerability, further driving interest.

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Regulatory Shifts in the EU

In 2016, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) evaluated vitamin A in cosmetics, citing concerns over cumulative exposure from food, supplements, and skincare products. This led to stricter limits on concentrations of Retinol and its derivatives in cosmetic formulations.

A 2024 amendment to the EU Cosmetics Regulation mandates the following:

• Effective November 1, 2025: New products are required to adhere to the guidelines of the SCCS. 
• Effective May 1, 2027: Prohibition of non-compliant products on the market.

Products containing Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, and Retinyl Acetate must reformulate or face removal from the market. Notably, Retinal, Retinyl Retinoate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate remain unaffected, making them attractive alternatives.

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Consumer Trends and Market Growth

The global fascination with retinoids is evident in the rise of products featuring these ingredients. Here’s a breakdown of recent trends:

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Retinoid

Retinoids maintain a strong monthly search volume of 557K, though YoY growth has remained unchanged at 0%, signaling potential market saturation for generic terms like "Retinol." However, interest in specific combinations and innovative formats is driving new trends.

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Top combinations like "retinol + retinal" (+244% YoY) and "retinol + hyaluronic acid" (+53% YoY) highlight consumer curiosity about comparing retinoid types as well as combined formulations. Growth in searches for "retinol + panax ginseng" (+347% YoY) and "retinol + pads" (+132% YoY) indicates demand for synergistic formulations and novel product formats.

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Search Volume of Various Retinoids

Retinol remains the most searched ingredient with a monthly volume of 481K, though it has seen a -3% YoY decline, suggesting slight saturation in interest. Retinal follows with a significant +62% YoY growth, reflecting its rising popularity as a potent yet gentler alternative. Granactive Retinoid shows a steep decline of -21% YoY, indicating waning interest. Retinyl Retinoate, though with a smaller search volume of 350, stands out with an impressive +117% YoY growth, signaling increasing attention as an innovative hybrid molecule. Overall, this Google Search data suggests a shift toward newer, more effective, or tolerable retinoid options.

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Retinoids in the German Market

The German market for retinoid-containing products currently comprises 1.5K unique products across 371 unique brands on etailers like Flaconi, Mueller, and Douglas. Over the past three months, eyva detected a +6% growth in overall product offerings, signaling steady expansion. 

Recent months have seen consistent activity in new launches, with 65 new products from brands like Judith Williams, Babor, and Lancaster, reflecting a sustained interest in retinoid-based formulations among both consumers and brands.

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The key players in the market are FILORGA and Eveline Cosmetics–both with 53 products, taking a 3.46% share in the market. They are followed by L’Oréal Paris with 40 products (2.61% in shares) and Sesderma with 38 products (2.48% in shares).

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Trending Retinol Products

Trending Retinal Products 

Trending Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Products

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In terms of growth rate for each form of retinoid, the following numbers were observed:

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Takeaway

As the skincare industry adapts to regulatory changes and evolving consumer preferences, the spotlight on retinoids continues to grow. While Retinol remains iconic, the rise of alternatives like Retinal, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, and plant-based options like bakuchiol highlights a broader shift toward innovation and holism. 

For skincare enthusiasts and professionals alike, understanding these nuances ensures making informed choices in the quest for healthy, radiant skin.

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